A lucky escape!

 

Saturday 13th March 2004

Having secured an early finish from work thanks to a favour owed by a colleague I managed to catch the 1145 from New Street to Euston. The only downside being that it was a Pendolino (rancid!). Richard Lea was accompanying me on the bash and he joined at International. A pretty crap run even by normal West Coast standards saw a 25 minute late arrival at Euston, thanks to a diversion via Northampton due to a rail defect on the 'old road' and a signalling fault at Tring. Just all serves to remind me why I hate the UK! Time to shake the hands of a few former colleagues at Euston, buy a Mother's Day card (nearly forgot!) and jump on the tube across to Tottenham Hale for the Stansted Express.

 

Arriving at 1517 for a 1715 flight we were expecting a queue at check-in, but there was no-one! The baglet confirmed that the flight was quiet. Through security and into Wetherspoons for a pint and meal before the flight.

 

Take off was on time and the flight was dead, only about 60 punters. After a good flight we touched down at Linz (winner flughafen!) 25 early! A quick search found no evidence of the shuttle bus to Hörsching station and the information Ada insisted that we should catch the Ryanair bus into Linz instead! Ching? I don't think so! We decided that as it was a pleasant evening we'd walk it. With 40 minutes

until the next train we made it with ease and despite only using 'cranks instinct' made it to the shack in 20 minutes. On the IC to Salzburg Mr Lea got out his new toy - he'd finally succumbed to temptation and bought a PDA at Dixons tax-free at Stansted!

 

After a quick out-and-back we retired to the bar opposite the station (open until 0100) for a few Steigl Weizengolds prior to boarding the overnight.

 

 

Sunday 14th March 2004

A fairly short but decent overnight getting off at the junction shack of Zidani Most just after 7am. A bakery on the platform provided breakfast prior to boarding the "Citadella" IC. On departure from Celje we found a diesel had topped the train and soon found out this was due to OHLE works just North of the station. It was removed again at Šentjur where phots were obtained of the bonus score 643.039.

 

643.039 about to be unhooked

 

At Pragersko the familiar sound of a 664 could be heard backing on and Rich confirmed it was winner 106! The driver was an absolute nutter!! Ferenc rang Szombathely depot for us and SMS'd me to say that M41s 2210 & 2211 were working the ICs to/from Hodoš. With both of these being winners we decided to stay on the train across into Hungary and risk the +3 at Zalalövo. It made easily and always will - the Hungarian border police do the same move!

 

MÁV Ganz M41.2211 at Zalalövo, with the border police wondering what the hell we were doing!

 

Having scored both M41s we were annoyed (but not surprised) when 664.106 backed on at Hodoš. We consoled ourselves though by having a meal and beers in the MÁV restaurant car.

 

363.011 at Celje

 

Quick electric spin to Celje and back then a pair dropped onto the next Budapest train, with 106 partnering up with 114, working in tandem. At Murska Subota 112 was on the Sundays only "school train" and the driver duly gave it some truly magnificent thrash! This train gets very busy and when we got off almost all seats were taken.

 

After a short overnight last night tonight's was to be an epic! 2204 from Zidani Most getting into Niš at 1125 the next day! Unfortunately the sleeping car only runs as far as Beograd so we were in the couchettes instead, but still managed a whole compo to ourselves.

 

 

Monday 15th March 2004

An excellent night's doss, disturbed only by the border grips at the 2 borders. We were pleased to find a 461 on the front from Beograd, however we abruptly came to a stand somewhere between Jagodina and Cuprija. With the driver having declared the loco a failure soon most of the male passengers were off the train and standing in the 4ft on the adjacent line smoking! Assistance arrived in the shape of another 461 after only about 40 minutes. We leapt off at some shack that had a shop in order to stock up on supplies, then scratched another 441 in to Stalać. Here dud 661.116 was running around it's stock to go back to Lapovo. Our plan was to catch the "Balkan Express" to Nis then head up to Zaječar. When it hadn't showed up 20 minutes after departure Richard enquired with the redcap who advised that the train wasn't running!

 

A hasty replan saw us lead back towards Beograd and pick up the sole through Beograd-Zaječar train which had been reported as being a 666 several tlmes.

 

At Požarevac we were pleased to see 666.001 and a genny van which firstly shunted some wagons onto the rear of the train before dropping on top. 5 hours of "071" thrash was rudely interrupted at Rgotina when the engine started spluttering. Richard thought that fuel starvation was the cause and this was confirmed by the guard. Two failures in one day!! Ganz 641.335 came to the rescue after about 45 minutes and we arrived in Zaječar just shy of 90 late, walking into the Hotel Srbjia at 00.30.

 

 

Tuesday 16th March 2004

A bad night's sleep as we had to get up at 05.30 and the room had been freezing cold all night. 661.247 was not what we'd hoped for on the Niš train as we'd had it last visit on the overnight from Beograd into Romania. Just to rub salt into the wound required 661.232 was heading the other way, which we couldn't do or our plans would have fallen apart!

 

661.232 steaming away nicely at Zaječar

 

At Niš we raided the local supermarket, not having eaten properly since lunchtime the previous day. We then boarded the single coach between 441.514 and several coal wagons for the circular tour of Niš!

 

A local train took us North to Stalać where another dud 661 took us to Kraljevo. Here three 661 hauled trains meet and connect - all three were dud! We stuck to our plan ond chose 661.129 for a two hour thrash across the "border" into Kosovo. (Kosovo is an autonomous state, technically part of Serbia, but under UN administration after the Milosevic-led war of the late 1990's).

 

At Raška we passed a train consisting of 10 ex-SJ coaches which were enroute to Kosovo having been donated by the Swedes.

 

At Lesak a cross platform change saw us board the UNMIK Railways train to Kosovo Polje. The train consisted of a box van, ex-MŽ 2nd class open coach and ex-JŽ 2nd class compo coach hauled by ex-NSB NoHAB diesel loco Di3.3619. All around were UNMIK staff wearing yellow hi-vis vests. Both coaches were in a right state with some windows smashed, others replaced by perspex, seat cushions ripped and doors missing. En-route the train filled up considerably and it was standing room only on the approach to Kosovo Polje. Surprisingly there was no ticket grip, but a sign on one of the windows said that the new stock would be introduced on 1st Apri and from this date a 0.50€ fare would be payable on boarding the train.

 

We finally arrived in Kosovo Polje and it was pitch black, with no station lights working. A very off-putting experience! We followed Dave Unpronouncable's directions and found the Hotel Drenica outside the station, across the road from a plinthed kettle. The hotel staff spoke a mixture of English and German and seemed pleased to see English people staying in the hotel. A very welcome hot meal in the hotel restaurant was washed down with some local beer! Just before we retired the hotel manager warned us that the electricity got cut off at 2300!

 

 

Wednesday 17th March 2004

We could have made an early start this morning and done the rest of the available track in Kosovo, down to Ðeneral Jankovic but had decided against it for as it was a very early start (0431) and we badly needed sleep. Instead we made our way over to the station for 0735. We could see 2 NoHABs rolling into the station. Required Di3.3641 hooked onto a wagon which it shunted onto the rear of our train, which was hauled by Di3.3643 - also a winner, thanks UNMIK for swapping! The train was absolutely wedged, with our compo being invaded by an Albanian family and a Serb businessman with briefcase!

 

Plinthed kettle outside Kosovo Polje station

 

Di3.643 at Lesak having run round

 

At Lesak we changed back onto the Kraljevo train which was hauled by winning 661.274 - a Bosnian (ŽRS) loco presumably on loan!

 

ŽRS branded 661.274 at Kraljevo

 

The 1210 Kraljevo-Čačak was dud 661.116 so we decided to walk into the centre of Kraljevo to a restaurant we knew for lunch and some beers. We ensured we were back at the station for 14.30 as at this time 3 661-hauled trains all meet. 2 were winners and we elected to do the one across to the Bar line where we could intercept a Beograd bound fast train. The line between Čačak and Požega is mega scenic with lots of running olongside a river. At one point I spotted a raft crammed with uniformed soldiers!

 

661.117 had put in a splendid performance but was still about 20 late, however the connection was still held. The train we connected into at Požega was a Bar-Beograd fast train which was busy but not wedged. We shared a compo with a nice looking girl and a youngish bloke who looked like he'd just appeared in "Grease". He spent the entire 3 hour journey basically trying to get into the girl's knickers, but to no avail! This included trying to "cop a feel" when in one of the many tunnels (the lights weren't working). Tired of his inane chatter we were glad to get off at Beograd, where we dumped the bags and headed up to the Pivnica Kasina brewpub. It was surprisingly warm in Belgrade and we sat outside for food and beers.

 

We were doing the Thessaloniki-Ljubljana overnight to Zagreb and didn't fancy chinging for a sleeper for such a short (7 hour) overnight. So we headed straight for the MZ couchette car. The couchette Bert looked just like a Macedonian Albert Einstein! The couchettes were busy but when he found out that we were staff he turfed some baglet out of a compo so we could have it to ourselves!!

 

 

Thursday 18th March 2004

We arrived right time in Zagreb and made the 0454 on the Kotoriba line, but it was dud. Managed to score a gronk by jumping on some stock that was getting shunt released! Decided that the Osijek line move was the better move, even with required 2.044.005 on the Budapest train adjacent. We managed to secure the rearmost compo on departure from Zagreb and between Koprivnica and Osijek much thrash was enjoyed. The clueless splitarse gripper managed to wrongly grip Richard's FIP passes, even though she'd just done mine - she got told!!

 

2044.027 having arrived at Osijek

 

Had time for a quick beer at Osijek at a new bar that has opened right outside the shack. If you sit "al fresco" you can watch the movements in the station. Not pleased that it was the same engine on the way back, as they usually swap. The train back to Osijek was also dud!

 

We found out by text that just hours after we'd passed through Mitrovica in Kosovo on the NoHAB yesterday things had kicked off between the Serbs and ethnic Albanians, with looting, burning of buildings and many deaths and injuries. Looks like we may have had a lucky escape!!

 

With a +50 only one thing to do - yes another beer in the bar, serving baglet was withered! The Osijek tram fleet is still only 2 strong, although they have both been repainted, one yellow and one green!

 

We made our way to Vinkovci, unfortunately a unit had to be suffered for part of the journey. The train to be covered was B418 1330 Beograd-Vinkovci which arrives at 1716. The train is formed 1 x HŽ, 2 x ŽRS and 2 x JŽ coaches (in that order). Firstly the electric that brought the train is detached. Then the three railways' coaches are split. A gronk (2132.046) shunts the HŽ coach (a through coach Beograd-München) onto the front of B748 1740 Vinkovci-Zagreb. A 2062 (026 today) the draws the ŽRS coaches forward and forms B450 1758 Vinkovci-Banja Luka. Lastly the gronk then returns and puts the JŽ coaches away in the yard! At the same time as all this was taking place 2062.025 arrived on load 1, being the Županja branch line train, currently loco hauled vice DMU

 

Vinkovci diesel rush hour (well not quite an hour!) 2062.025 on the right has just run round the single coach forming the Županja branch train, whilst 2062.026 has just backed onto the 2 ŽRS coaches for the Banja Luka train!

 

Naturally having scored the gronk we then boarded the Banja Luka train. Despite being the only daily international train between Serbia and Bosnia the train was empty...completely empty! What followed was undoubtedly the best high speed diesel thrash I have ever had in Croatia. The lunatic driver was combined with the high speed allowance of the main line to create an unforgettable experience!

 

War memorial and plinthed kettle outside Vinkovci station

 

Mega 1970's style booking hall at Vinkovci

 

Back at Vinkovci we followed the directions to the Hotel Cibalia (highly recommended), then returned to the station for the Županja branch train. The branch is fairly low speed so not much thrash was had. At the end the loco ran-round and we chatted to the driver and guard (in German) about what we all did on the railway and chess, which is very popular in Croatia. We took some night photos off the old goods shed then the driver shouted "problem". The coach brakes were stuck on! After much messing about with the pipes and braking system they gave up. So, what did they do? Cape the train and put on a bus? Isolate the brakes and just use the loco brake? No, they just took the train with the coach brakes on! Much squealing and thrashing, with a very strong burning smell coming from underneath the coach. The train was met by the fitters at Vinkovci but we guessed by that time the wheels would be square! We retired to the restaurant next door to the hotel for food and then much needed doss.

 

 

Friday 19th March 2004

We had welcome lie-in this morning, had breakfast in the hotel and got up to the station for the 0905 "pig taxi" unit to the Bosnian border. The decision to stay in bed rather than cover the early Županja, to see if they'd swapped the 2062, was proved to be the right one when another "pig taxi" was working the branch. The coach from last night was parked up in the bay complete with "not to be moved" board on it!

 

On arrival at Drenovci the Bosnian diesel (661.267) had already run round it's train of one compo coach and a brake van. I took a phot but was ranted at by the zoll. Never mind l'd already taken it by then!

 

"No photos!" 661.267 at Drenovci and the Croatian "pig taxi" we'd alighted from

 

We were the only 2 on the train across the border and the guard chung us 4.40KM (Bosnian convertible Marks) each for the journey to Tuzla. On the way he lent us his ŽFBH timetable and we scribbled down the diesel branch timetables. The devastation caused by war was still very much apparent and we even passed some areas which still had warning signs for land mines.

 

Various sources of gen existed about the connection available at Tuzla. We knew that ŽRS ran a 212-hauled train between Petrovo Novo and Doboj, but some sources said there was a bus between the two, others a train. We could find neither so jumped in a taxi. The driver was brilliant and got us to Petrovo but the station sign said that it was Sockovac! The station staff said that we'd gone too far and that Petrovo Novo was further back towards Tuzla! The good news was that the Doboj train was due in 5 minutes, at least we'd made the train, the track can be done next time! 212.020, still marked as belonging to DB Cargo Kempten on load 3 former DR green & cream coaches formed the Doboj train, the fare was 1.80KM each.

 

212.020 arrives at Sockovac

 

We attempted to obtain a timetable and some more currency at Doboj and failed at both. However we did manage to buy tickets to Banja Luka (5.30KM each). This was a 2-coach stopper hauled by a 441 electric. Despite the wedge we managed to only have to share a compo with one local bloke. He spoke no English, us no Serbian, but we all spoke the common male language of eyeing up women!!!

 

The station at Banja Luka was surprisingly modern and looked like it had recently had some money spent on it. Couldn't immediately see which direction the City Centre was in, so we accosted a bus driver who said his bus was going there. Good job we did, it would have been about a 20 minute walk! We found three hotels and checked into the Hotel Palace.

 

After a quick wash we went for a walk around. Banja Luka appears to be a modern vibrant city. We found an internet café and checked our e-mails - the connection speed was as good as at home! There were people on the streets everywhere and the sheer number of bars and restaurants would have put many Western European cities to shame. After a pizza we sat outside one of the many bars on the main street and watched the world go by.

 

 

Saturday 20th March 2004

This morning we saw our first evidence of NATO's continued involvement in the area, with an SFOR train loaded with British Land Rovers and equipment stabled in the station yard. A bonus engine was scored when an additional 441 was put on the front of our train prior to departure and piloted the train for a few shacks where it dropped onto a freight. The stopper we were on terminated at Dobrljin, the station on the Bosnian side of the border with Croatia. Here we had about an hour and a half's fester, so we walked into the village and bought some provisions. The Zagreb-Ploce fast train arrived and we met up with Dave Unpronounceable and Redhill who'd been on a mega bash in Eastern Europe. We'd arranged to meet up with them today to do the Bihać train. 661.323 arrived on the inbound train from Bihać (late - the Sarajevo connection was not held!) and then a mega complicated shunt took place to remove the wagons and demic coach. The loco returned on load 1 former Bc couchette coach and we left around 40 late. Much bellowing was had, especially at the hellfire scenery. At one point a demic car was seen precariously protruding from an outcrop of rock on a cliff! The war had obviously taken it's toll badly on this area as many of the station buildings were complete ruins and the overhead wires were no more.

 

Memorial outside Banja Luka station honouring the members of railway staff who died in the war

 

441.304 at Dobrlijn before disappearing light engine to Volinja to work the fast train from Zagreb

 

However, Bihać station was intact and was still displaying a departures sheet from 1991/92 with riotous looking trains such as Split-Subotica and Zadar-Sarajevo - oh for a time machine!!! A few local beers were sampled at the bar outside the station before returning.

 

Heritage A&D sheet at Bihać - picture uploaded full size/quality. Now someone must have the key to that cabinet!!!

 

661.323 waits for departure time at Bihać.

 

At Novi Grad (or Bosanski Novi as it's confusingly called by ŽFBH) the Zagreb fast train was about 20 late and this time it was the Bihac train that departed without making the connection - beware!!

 

The journey back was uneventful except at Sisak Caprag loads of teenagers boarded the train. Approaching Sisak some 5 minutes later and obviously attempting to avoid the grip they all walked through the train and wedged into the front vestibule, just like the BLS track scoopers on tours at home! As we were in the front compo we counted them as they got off and there were 22 of them!!

 

We bid farewell to Dave and Redhill on arrival at Zagreb as they were doing the overnight to Salzburg. We checked into the Hotel Astoria then made our way across town on the tram to the Pivnica Medvedgrad brewpub. We'd arranged to meet our Croatian friend Toma who'd kindly loaned us his JŽ timetable for the bash.

 

 

Sunday 21st March 2004

The start of the move home now, with the IC move through Slovenia into Austria. The Slovenes didn't oblige with a new engine and although we hoped last Sunday's dragging might be repeated it wasn't.

 

Conversely the Austrians were much more sociable; a new Gale to Wiener Neustadt then, helped by the generous donation of a Wendeliste from the station redcap, 4 new 2016's and some winner track to Puchberg am Schneeberg. 

 

2016.060 at Puchberg am Schneeberg, normally a unit only line

 

2016.007 at Mattersburg. They GySEV coaches are recent acquisitions from DB Regio.

 

A new 2068 gronked the Gutenstein portion onto E1952 which is booked for a 1010 to commemorate the anniversary of the opening of the Semmering line. A nice meal was had in the station restaurant at Wien Süd prior to a spin move on 2143's which unfortunately only resulted in one winner. Ended up in Bratislava and found a hotel for a few hours' doss before the early flight home the next day.

 

 

Monday 21st March 2004

The airport at Bratislava has obviously seen better days! The only facility open was a very small café/bar until the Duty Free shop opened at about 0600. The flight was totally wedged, but I was pleasantly surprised to find I’d been allocated the emergency exit window seat with oceans of leg room! A very rough take-off and landing with some pretty bad turbulence, but a good on time performance. Shame the same could not be said of the Stansted Express which took 45 minutes to get to Tottenham Hale!

 

 

 

Summary

A welcome return to the Balkans after a long absence. We found that things in Croatia had improved such a lot since our last visit, with the trains being much cleaner and the toilets especially being up to the standard expected on trains in Western Europe. Slovenian 664’s were as good as remembered with some good high quality thrash being experienced. Serbia is still quite hard work, but rewarding as the 661’s are hellfire and it was good to at last be able to sample a 666. Here too things seem to have improved, but some quite severe late running is still prevelant and it’s still a lottery as to if the printed timetable can be trusted or not. It was good to visit Kosovo, and quite an experience! I’m sure that the riots in Mitrovica will put people off visiting there in the short term, but it’s well worth it for the NoHABs. Photography was less hassle than previously, with the only problems encountered at Drenvoci on the Croatian/Bosnian border and at a few places in Serbia. Generally though once the authorities (either police or railway staff) realised that we posed no threat they were happy to allow us to continue.

 

Matthew Reeves, Birmingham, UK, March 2004.